Hey there, Resin Ornament
Let me cut to the chase because I know you’re here for a straight answer that doesn’t involve jargon or half-baked tips: Yes, you absolutely can make resin ornaments with resin casting resin. I’ve been running a small, family-style resin ornament supplier for seven years now, and this is the question I get at least twice a week—from new hobbyists testing the waters, from small boutique store owners wanting to stock custom resin pieces, and even from other suppliers testing new molds. But before you grab that two-part resin kit from the craft store, let me walk you through what I’ve learned along the way, the mistakes I made in my first two years (so you don’t make them too), and the science behind why casting resin works way better for ornaments than other types of resin.
Let’s start with the basics: not all resin is created equal. When I first started out, I thought “casting resin” was just a fancy name for epoxy resin. Don’t get me wrong—most casting resins are two-part epoxy resins, but that’s only part of the story. There’s also polyester resin, polyurethane resin, and even UV-cured resin. Wait, hold on—UV-cured? I once tried using that for Christmas tree ornaments, thinking it would be faster. Big mistake. It cures from the outside in, so the center of the ornament was still sticky after 24 hours, and it would crack if you dropped it. Ornaments take a beating, right? They get hung on tree branches, handled by little hands, stored in boxes for months. You need resin that cures uniformly, is durable, and has a smooth finish that doesn’t yellow over time. That’s why casting resin (specifically high-quality, food-safe? Wait, no—wait, ornaments don’t need to be food-safe, but they do need to be impact-resistant. I use general-purpose casting resin that’s formulated for low viscosity, which means it flows evenly into every tiny detail of a mold, whether that’s a tiny snowflake’s edge or a personalized initial.
Now, let’s talk about why this works for ornaments specifically. Ornaments aren’t just decorative—they’re often keepsakes. A resin ornament needs to be clear (or pigmented evenly), scratch-resistant, and able to hold up to temperature changes (think: a hot attic in summer, a cold basement in winter). Casting resin cross-links as it cures, forming a thermoset polymer—once it’s fully cured, it doesn’t melt or soften, which is way better than thermoplastics that warp with heat. I tested this early on: I made two identical ornaments, one with casting resin and one with polyester resin (a cheaper alternative I tried to save money). Left them in my garage over a Texas summer (where temperatures hit 110°F/43°C). The polyester resin ornament melted a little, lost its shape, and was sticky to the touch. The casting resin one? It was exactly the same as when I made it, no changes. That’s the science part I don’t see a lot of hobbyist blogs talking about—thermoset vs. thermoplastic polymers.
But here’s the thing: it’s not just pouring resin into a mold and hoping for the best. I learned this the hard way. My first batch of custom wedding ornaments was a disaster. The resin bubbles were everywhere, some ornaments had wet spots, and a few cracked when I popped them out of the mold. I lost a couple hundred dollars, and I still remember checking my email the next morning to a client asking where their order was. So let me share the practical steps I’ve refined over the years, steps that work for making high-quality resin ornaments with casting resin.
First, prep is everything. You need clean molds—no dust, no leftover resin from previous uses, because dust will show up as a spot in your ornament. I use silicone molds because they’re flexible, easy to demold, and hold detail. But before you pour, you have to make sure your resin is mixed correctly. Here’s another mistake I made: I thought more mixing time would mean a better cure. Nope. Casting resin has a working time (pot life)—usually 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the brand. If you mix it for too long, you trap air bubbles, and if you mix it for too short, the resin doesn’t cure evenly. The ratio is non-negotiable too—1:1 by volume, not by weight, unless the brand specifically says weight. I once used a scale to measure (my first big order of 500 ornaments) and noticed that my pour cups were slightly off, so some ornaments cured soft. That’s when I invested in a digital scale, not just a measuring cup.
Next, bubbles. This is the biggest issue for ornament makers. Bubbles make the piece look cheap, and if they’re on the edge, they can weaken the ornament so it cracks. My go-to trick? After mixing the resin, I pour it slowly into the mold, then use a small heat gun (not a torch—torches can get too hot and warp thin molds) to hover above the surface for 10 to 15 seconds. The heat pops the surface bubbles, and any tiny bubbles inside will rise to the top. Wait, but why does that work? The heat reduces the resin’s viscosity, so the bubbles are less likely to get trapped, and the surface tension is lower, so they pop easier. I also add small amounts of pigment or glitter—for glitter ornaments, I mix the glitter in with the resin, not pour it on top, because pouring on top makes it sink unevenly. For personalized ornaments with names, I use a silicone mold with lettering, and I make sure to mix the resin slowly to avoid bubbles around the letters.
Demolding is another step that trips people up. You can’t demold too early—if the resin isn’t fully cured, it will stick to the mold and break. Different casting resins have different cure times: some are fully cured in 24 hours, some take 72. I always let mine sit for 48 hours before demolding, even if the label says 24. I learned this the hard way when I demolded an ornament after 20 hours, and it bent when I picked it up. Silicone molds help here because you can flex the mold gently to release the ornament, but never pull too hard—you might stretch the mold or break the resin. Once demolded, I give every ornament a light sanding around the edges with fine-grit sandpaper (2000 grit) to smooth out any rough spots, then polish it with a soft cloth. That’s what gives them that professional, glossy finish that makes people want to put them on their tree, not toss them in a box.
Now, let’s address a common question: can you add other things to casting resin to make ornaments unique? Absolutely—embeds, dried flowers, tiny trinkets, even pressed leaves. I make a lot of ornaments with embedded baby’s breath or lavender for customers who want keepsakes for new babies or wedding favors. The key here is making sure the embed is completely dry. If you add fresh flowers, they release moisture when they’re under the resin, and that causes cloudy spots or bubbles. I dry all my flowers for two weeks in a dark, dry place before adding them. Also, place the embed evenly in the mold before pouring the resin—don’t just drop it in after, because it might float to the top or stick to the bottom.
Wait, but what about people who say resin is toxic? I get that a lot, especially from parents or customers who buy ornaments for their kids. The thing is, when it’s fully cured, casting resin is non-toxic. The fumes are only present during the mixing and curing stages (the first 24 to 72 hours). That’s why I always recommend working in a well-ventilated area, wearing gloves and a mask, and keeping kids and pets away from the workspace until the resin is fully cured. I’ve had customers tell me they hang my resin ornaments on their kid’s tree, and they’ve never had an issue—because once cured, the resin is stable, no harmful chemicals leaching out. That’s a big selling point, right? Keepsakes that are safe.
As a supplier, I test every new batch of casting resin I use. Last year, I tried a new brand of casting resin that claimed to be “yellowing-resistant.” I made a batch of 100 snowflake ornaments, half with the old resin and half with the new. After 12 months stored in a box in a basement, the old resin ones were slightly yellowed, but the new ones were still clear—exactly as they were when made. That’s important for ornaments that are meant to be heirlooms. I also test for impact resistance: I drop an ornament from 5 feet onto a hardwood floor, and if it doesn’t crack, it’s good enough to sell. A lot of cheap craft resin ornaments crack after one year, but with high-quality casting resin, mine last for decades.
Now, let’s talk about who this is for. If you’re a hobbyist wanting to make your own resin ornaments for personal use, or a small shop owner wanting to add resin pieces to your inventory—resin casting resin is your best bet. I supply to a few small boutiques that started out making their own ornaments and switched to buying from me because they realized using casting resin (and avoiding the mistakes I made early on) gives them a consistent, high-quality product. It’s also more versatile than other types of resin: you can make thin, delicate ornaments (like angel wings) or thick, heavy ones (like personalized initials) without worrying about warping.
I know a lot of people are nervous about starting out with resin. It can seem overwhelming, with all the different products and steps. But here’s the truth: resin casting for ornaments isn’t rocket science, as long as you use the right resin and follow the basic rules. Don’t cut corners on the resin—cheap resin might save you a few bucks upfront, but you’ll end up with cracked, yellowed ornaments that cost you more in returns or bad reviews. Invest in a good casting resin, take your time mixing, prep, and curing, and you’ll make ornaments that people will cherish for years.
If you’re a shop owner or someone looking to order resin ornaments in bulk, or if you’re a hobbyist curious about working with casting resin but want to ask more specific questions—reach out. I’ve been in this business long enough to know that every project is a little different, and I’m happy to share tips, or even help you source high-quality casting resin if you don’t know where to start. My customers trust me because I don’t sell overpriced stuff that doesn’t work, and I don’t hide the mistakes I made along the way. Resin ornaments are more than just decorations—they’re keepsakes, gifts, memories. That’s why I put so much care into every piece I make, and why casting resin is the foundation of every single one.
Don’t let the fear of bubbles or sticky resin stop you. Give it a try, take notes, and remember that practice makes perfect. And if you’re looking for reliable, handcrafted resin ornaments (or want to partner with a supplier that knows this craft inside and out), don’t hesitate to get in touch.
Resin Charms References
- "Understanding Resin Types: Epoxy vs. Polyester vs. Polyurethane" – Resin Obsession, Industry Guide
- "Curing Properties of Thermoset Epoxy Resins for Decorative Applications" – Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 2019
- "Best Practices for Resin Ornament Making: Curing Time, Demolding, and Finish" – Craft Resin Manufacturer Technical Bulletin, 2022
- "Toxicity of Cured Epoxy Resins: A Review of Safety Standards" – Occupational and Environmental Medicine Journal, 2021
- "Impact Resistance Test Methods for Decorative Polymer Products" – American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) Standard D256, 2020
Shengzhou Shengteng Accessories Co., Ltd.
With abundant experience, we are one of the most professional resin ornament manufacturers and suppliers in China. We warmly welcome you to wholesale customized resin ornament at competitive price from our factory. For free sample, contact us now.
Address: Room 701, Building 23, Wanyang Innovation City, No. 368 Kaiya Road, Changle Town, Shengzhou City, Shaoxing City, Zhejiang Province
E-mail: 15869252296@163.com
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